Car Battery

Canfordhacker

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Having problems with my daughter's car battery. Went through a period a few months ago of needing a jump start. Checked with a multimeter, and alternator charging properly. Problem disappeared, but has resurfaced. Again, multimeter shows it is charging ok, but flat as a pancake a few hours later. Would indicate something drawing power, but cannot for the life of me identify what.

Loathe to shell out on a new battery only to have it resurface. Any suggestions?

Thanks!!
 
The likes of mid noughties BMWs came with an inherant flaw with the final stage resister (FSR or Hedgehog as it is known as it has a big heatsink with spikes) which left the climate control type stuff active even when away from the car and having it locked. The battery could be charging but with a reduced capacity. Do you have a similar battery to test it with? Failing that its going to have to be an autospark or new battery to test it out.
 
Having problems with my daughter's car battery. Went through a period a few months ago of needing a jump start. Checked with a multimeter, and alternator charging properly. Problem disappeared, but has resurfaced. Again, multimeter shows it is charging ok, but flat as a pancake a few hours later. Would indicate something drawing power, but cannot for the life of me identify what.

Loathe to shell out on a new battery only to have it resurface. Any suggestions?

Thanks!!
Turn everything off wait two mins .
Put multimeter across bat terminals and then remove fuses one at a time if reading changes this will identify what circuit is drawing power when off.
 
Make sure it's fully charged, and stick a voltmeter across the battery terminals which should be around 12/13/14 volts.. Crank the engine, and there shouldn't be that great a voltage drop (staying at least 11 volts). If there is a big drop chances are it's the battery.
Thats how I check a battery, and so far hasn't got me wrong.
 
Make sure it's fully charged, and stick a voltmeter across the battery terminals which should be around 12/13/14 volts.. Crank the engine, and there shouldn't be that great a voltage drop (staying at least 11 volts). If there is a big drop chances are it's the battery.
Thats how I check a battery, and so far hasn't got me wrong.

Agreed, if the battery drops below 11.4-5 then Id say that is the problem. If the battery is 5 plus years old and a lesser brand Id also look at replacing as a matter of course. Bosch silver S3/S4/S5 would be my choice.
 
Agreed, if the battery drops below 11.4-5 then Id say that is the problem. If the battery is 5 plus years old and a lesser brand Id also look at replacing as a matter of course. Bosch silver S3/S4/S5 would be my choice.

Most likely to be a battery problem if it's five years old or more. Typically they will no longer hold charge after this period.
 
Local motorfactors still work out cheaper than Euro car parts and GSF.

Problem 'we' have is ECP and GSF are our 'local' motor factors...


And, back in the day, in the event of thinking I might have a battery issue...
I'd first check battery condition using a hydrometer to see if I'd 'lost' a cell...
 
Problem 'we' have is ECP and GSF are our 'local' motor factors...


And, back in the day, in the event of thinking I might have a battery issue...
I'd first check battery condition using a hydrometer to see if I'd 'lost' a cell...

*pulls a funny face...



They aren't awful for some things, GSF did pull me out of a hole once as they carried a coolant expansion tank bleed valve that enabled us to go to the north coast that otherwise would have screwed up our weekend. It was only 1.50 or something but bmw etc didnt have it.
 
Just a thought ................... make sure the boot light goes out when the boot is closed.
It's caught me out on more than one occasion!
 
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