Bending Lofts Strong

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Decided to get lofts and lie's double checked on my irons for peace of mind and following a gap check session get them bent 2 degree strong to the original manufacturer loft spec. 716 MB'S

It sorts my gapping out perfectly as a result.

I will have 4 degree loft between every club now with the exception of the 4 / 5 iron which is only 3 degree loft difference. (Manufacturer has 3 degree loft diff here but 4 for all other irons)

I'm tempted to get the 4 iron bent 1 extra degree this will give 0 bounce as a result but I'm a sweeper with long irons anyway.

In limbo of whether to give him a call and bend the 4 more or leave as is. Mizuno blade long irons have 0 degree bounce i believe on the 3 and 4 irons and this doesn't seem to be an issue?

Anything else to consider in this scenario other than bounce?

I have just bought a 17 degree 2 iron T-MB so the 21 degree 4 iron (if i bend it an extra degree) would bridge the gap perfectly. I then have the 13.5 degree 3 wood so no more gaps in my clubs.

Just want to be sure of my choice before I contact the fitter and make change.
 

duncan mackie

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I'm fascinated by your basis for changing the lofts?

What improvements in performance are you anticipating, and what is that based on (have you changed the loft on your 7 iron and seen different numbers that look attractive?)

Or is it about the top and bottom end of the bag?
 

User 99

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I'm fascinated by your basis for changing the lofts?

What improvements in performance are you anticipating, and what is that based on (have you changed the loft on your 7 iron and seen different numbers that look attractive?)

Or is it about the top and bottom end of the bag?
Me as well. If you're a top level am or tour pro I get it but a handicap golfer 🤔
 
Thread starter #4
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I'm fascinated by your basis for changing the lofts?

What improvements in performance are you anticipating, and what is that based on (have you changed the loft on your 7 iron and seen different numbers that look attractive?)

Or is it about the top and bottom end of the bag?
The decision wasn't about distance it was about gapping. After a quick gapping review we bent 2 clubs and tried those out which gave a good base to work from.

It ties both ends of my bag together. I had severe gapping issues on the top end of the bag previously (long irons / hybrids etc.) previously and I believe the lofts were out anyway 4 iron and 5 iron were too close in yardage with pure strikes which hindered gapping more so. A loft and lie check then change is being done anyway so I'll see if the lofts were out through use.

It also ties my bag in with a new set of vokeys i'll have in 50, 54 and 58.

The bag will look like follows:

3 Wood 13.5 Degree
2 Iron 17 Degree
4 Iron 21 or 22 Degree (Only non consistent gap unless i go 21 hence thread)
5 Iron 25 Degree
6 Iron 29 Degree
7 Iron 33 Degree
8 Iron 37 Degree
9 Iron 41 Degree
PW 45 Degree
Vokey 50 Degree
Vokey 54 Degree
Vokey 58 Degree

The new wedge set-up is working much better for my yardage in practice.

I don't understand why changing lofts is reserved only for pro's why wouldn't you if it's of benefit to your game?
 

patricks148

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The decision wasn't about distance it was about gapping. After a quick gapping review we bent 2 clubs and tried those out which gave a good base to work from.

It ties both ends of my bag together. I had severe gapping issues on the top end of the bag previously (long irons / hybrids etc.) previously and I believe the lofts were out anyway 4 iron and 5 iron were too close in yardage with pure strikes which hindered gapping more so. A loft and lie check then change is being done anyway so I'll see if the lofts were out through use.

It also ties my bag in with a new set of vokeys i'll have in 50, 54 and 58.

The bag will look like follows:

3 Wood 13.5 Degree
2 Iron 17 Degree
4 Iron 21 or 22 Degree (Only non consistent gap unless i go 21 hence thread)
5 Iron 25 Degree
6 Iron 29 Degree
7 Iron 33 Degree
8 Iron 37 Degree
9 Iron 41 Degree
PW 45 Degree
Vokey 50 Degree
Vokey 54 Degree
Vokey 58 Degree

The new wedge set-up is working much better for my yardage in practice.

I don't understand why changing lofts is reserved only for pro's why wouldn't you if it's of benefit to your game?
some strong lofts there, i thought you had blade type irons so, which have weaker lofts?
 

duncan mackie

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The decision wasn't about distance it was about gapping. After a quick gapping review we bent 2 clubs and tried those out which gave a good base to work from.

It ties both ends of my bag together. I had severe gapping issues on the top end of the bag previously (long irons / hybrids etc.) previously and I believe the lofts were out anyway 4 iron and 5 iron were too close in yardage with pure strikes which hindered gapping more so. A loft and lie check then change is being done anyway so I'll see if the lofts were out through use.

It also ties my bag in with a new set of vokeys i'll have in 50, 54 and 58.

The bag will look like follows:

3 Wood 13.5 Degree
2 Iron 17 Degree
4 Iron 21 or 22 Degree (Only non consistent gap unless i go 21 hence thread)
5 Iron 25 Degree
6 Iron 29 Degree
7 Iron 33 Degree
8 Iron 37 Degree
9 Iron 41 Degree
PW 45 Degree
Vokey 50 Degree
Vokey 54 Degree
Vokey 58 Degree

The new wedge set-up is working much better for my yardage in practice.

I don't understand why changing lofts is reserved only for pro's why wouldn't you if it's of benefit to your game?
Thank you for the response.

Firstly I don't think your last paragraph was in response to anything I had posted - I agree.

Moving on I'm afraid you seem to contradict yourself a little at one point in my mind because to me gapping is all about distance. You reference this yourself a couple of times with your wedges and your old 4/5 iron carry - but also state it's nothing about distance and go on to focus fastidiously on lofts.

I've always focused more on what a club does for me than what's either printed on its sole or in its specification.
 
Thread starter #7
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759
Thank you for the response.

Firstly I don't think your last paragraph was in response to anything I had posted - I agree.

Moving on I'm afraid you seem to contradict yourself a little at one point in my mind because to me gapping is all about distance. You reference this yourself a couple of times with your wedges and your old 4/5 iron carry - but also state it's nothing about distance and go on to focus fastidiously on lofts.

I've always focused more on what a club does for me than what's either printed on its sole or in its specification.
No it wasn't with regards to your comment it was to RandG who I failed to quote.

Very much so about what the clubs do for me, I was a little confusing. Yes it's all very much about distance between my irons nd having the right and consistent gapping in terms of distance.

What I meant was that stronger lofts were not done just to create distance but to serve a purpose for me. As with you it's just a number on the club! Not to be able to hit a 7 iron x amount of yards.
 
Thread starter #8
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Messages
759
Thank you for the response.

Firstly I don't think your last paragraph was in response to anything I had posted - I agree.

Moving on I'm afraid you seem to contradict yourself a little at one point in my mind because to me gapping is all about distance. You reference this yourself a couple of times with your wedges and your old 4/5 iron carry - but also state it's nothing about distance and go on to focus fastidiously on lofts.

I've always focused more on what a club does for me than what's either printed on its sole or in its specification.
some strong lofts there, i thought you had blade type irons so, which have weaker lofts?
Yes strong lofts, there all exactly 2 degree stronger than manufacturer lofts on the 716 MB's.

It's not an issue for me though really, getting the ball up is not a problem. Infact it's one reason I'm happy for my whole set to reduce by 2 degrees. Feel much more confident with a slightly shallower trajectory into the greens.

On the irons I changed lofts on slightly the trajectory was near perfect to what I was after. It's a confidence builder if nothing else.
 

Jacko_G

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Just about every club that leaves the factory won't be 100% spot on for loft, manufacturing tolerances are going to throw that out.

I can understand why you have done it, be interesting to see if you feel that your grouping and distance margins are more accurate as a result.
 
Thread starter #10
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Just about every club that leaves the factory won't be 100% spot on for loft, manufacturing tolerances are going to throw that out.

I can understand why you have done it, be interesting to see if you feel that your grouping and distance margins are more accurate as a result.
Hi There,

I'll post a picture of the lofts before and after if i remember. Not one club to my memory matched that of the manufacturer spec.

Some clubs had a gap of 2 degrees others 3. The 4 and 5 iron only a degree between them. A bit all over the show really as could be expected with second hand clubs. There very under-used though and I'm told standard lofts so very very suprising. Maybe from use on range mats which transfer more energy into the club head?

All lofts and lies done on a brand new machine which is definitely correct.

So I'm just glad I got them all checked and changed. Confident with the distances already as I spent a day checking yardages nice consistent gaps throughout the set.

It cost me £35 all in all to check loft and lie and tweak them to my specs, money well spent in my opinion.
 

Jacko_G

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Hi There,

I'll post a picture of the lofts before and after if i remember. Not one club to my memory matched that of the manufacturer spec.

Some clubs had a gap of 2 degrees others 3. The 4 and 5 iron only a degree between them. A bit all over the show really as could be expected with second hand clubs. There very under-used though and I'm told standard lofts so very very suprising. Maybe from use on range mats which transfer more energy into the club head?

All lofts and lies done on a brand new machine which is definitely correct.

So I'm just glad I got them all checked and changed. Confident with the distances already as I spent a day checking yardages nice consistent gaps throughout the set.

It cost me £35 all in all to check loft and lie and tweak them to my specs, money well spent in my opinion.
Sounds like £35 well spent tbh. Even turf will cause lofts and lie to alter after a while. I have seen sets like you say with only 1 degree of a difference between irons etc.
 

Foxholer

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Definitely worth getting L/L check done and adjusted where necessary. When my first 'proper' set of clubs (MP30s) were done - at the same time as a Driver Shaft fitting - a couple were out considerably (the 6 iron had the loft of a 5!)! The difference after they were set to factory lofts and lie for my swing was amazing! The 2 that were out the most went from 'avoided' clubs to 'favourites'!

I wouldn't change the gap just to make the difference consistent. Titleist did it for reason, so unless it's causing a problem, I'd leave it (the difference) as-is!
 

Mattyboy

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I did this to reduce the spin rate. I reckon for every 1 degree off it takes about 250 off the spin. I use Ping I Blades and Ping have a 'power spec' on their website for these where the lofts can be bent to and still retain playabilty. Its taking up to 2 degrees off each iron. Worked very well IMO in terms of reducing spin......
 

Piece

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You will need to check your distances with these gapped lofts. All very well getting consistent loft gaps if your distance gaps are varied. 😀
 
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